Supertramp Strikes Back

Hiking without proper gear, though inadvisable, reminds us of our need to encounter the wild on its own terms.

Distance mode. Proximity mode. Red-light, night vision mode. At 90 lumens, my new Black Diamond Spot headlamp is the sexiest addition to my backpacking kit in ages. For the second or third time on today’s maiden voyage hike, I unsheathe the Spot from my Gregory Z65’s brain pouch, cradle it in my fingers, and imagine how its endless wonderful qualities will make every trip better. The sharp, blood-red housing attaches to a retro, diagonally-shaded head band which gives the thing a provoking, Cyclops-transformer look. I’ve already perfected the push-button command rotation to flow seamlessly from one useful mode to the next. Now that I’m two miles on east county San Diego’s nine-mile Noble Canyon Trail, I’m dying for nighttime and a chance to test it out.

Noble Canyon is beautiful. Starting from the trailhead’s Pine Valley parking lot around 2:00PM, the trail weaves around rock-strewn hills to the left and follows a sloped-valley depression beneath chaparral scrub and manzanita hillsides. Even in mid-April, the Southern California sun is withering on the shadeless path. Tangled sage bushes eventually give way to agaves, Whipple Yucca, and the occasional patch of bright red Desert Paintbrush. My buddy Chad takes the lead.

Leaving our gear at an ideal campsite glen near Indian Creek's gushing canyon tributry, we continue up the most wooded sections of the ravine and are soon surrounded by tall Jeffrey Pines spreading from the Laguna Mountains above us. We arrive at a large alpine-like meadow, and Chad asks what’s further ahead. Having hiked the canyon before (see The Call of the Wild), I offer a brief sketch of the upper trailhead at Penny Pines and the nearby Pacific Crest Trail ridgeline with incredible views of the Mojave Desert below. Why not make a run for the PCT before dark? With three or four miles to go, we have no water, no snacks, not much sunlight, and no Black Diamond headlamp. Not wanting to be outdone in outdoorsy hardcoreness, I readily agree.

We walk briskly up the trail, and the sun seems to set at an accelerating pace. I offer to increase my speed, and, taking my words to heart, Chad breaks into a light jog. I’ve never run on a trail before, especially in ankle-covering Lowa hiking boots. After a mile or so, I limp to a stop and resume a painfully brisk trot. The sun has disappeared over the mountainous horizon, and the light in the sky is dimming rapidly. By the time we make the PCT, complete darkness limits our view of the desert to the street lights of far-off El Centro.

This is my first night hike and my first time hiking without the psychological comfort of having necessary survival items within an arm’s reach. Testing my body’s limits is a new thrill; I’m dehydrated, hungry, exhausted after a 10-mile hike/run, and we still have to claw our way six miles back on an near-invisible, uneven path. We are exposing ourselves to unforgiving elements of the wild. A dull thud of worry hits my mind, and I immediately catch a glimpse of life without modern predictability.

Christopher McCandless, or Alexander Supertramp for those who read or watched Into the Wild, was drawn towards similar long-forgotten attractions to life in the wild. Immediately after graduating from Emory in 1990, McCandless abandoned his car, burned his cash, donated his substantial bank account balance to OXFAM, and disappeared for two years tramping solo around the West. After arriving in Alaska, McCandless wrote “I am reborn. This is my dawn. Real life has just begun. Deliberate living: Conscious attention to the basics of life, and a constant attention to your immediate environment and its concerns, example – A job, a task, a book; anything requiring efficient concentration.”

Despite the condescending tone people sometimes use when discussing McCandless’ life, his story reverberates with something in the core of my soul. It is difficult to read about his adventures without an indelible, primordial longing to share the dangers which he sought. McCandless wrote in his journal, “So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man’s living spirit is his passion for adventure.”

Laguna Mountains, California
Chad and I stumble along the trail as the sky gets darker and darker, and I can barely make out the trail’s sharp, prickly edges. Our step slows to a foot-by-foot crawl as we are no longer are able to see the rock-strewn ground. Four miles to go. Anticipating a long night without water, food, or rest, I feel a pang of fear. I am unfamiliar with depending on my own toughness, and the fear comes as a relief. I am satisfied by the simplicity of endurance and survival.

McCandless was no just a histrionic kid trying to escape responsibilities. A broken, disconnected family history of sexual affairs, wealth, and career success left an emptiness in his heart and a disconnect between his life in modernity and real meaning. McCandless recognized the void and tried to fill it with a connection to the wild, to something that communicated directly to his manhood and soul. Searching for truth, he eventually died of starvation in central Alaska’s wilderness.

McCandless’ story echoes a revolt from the distractions of modern life which I can appreciate. Perhaps if we were honest with ourselves, many would recognize their own search for meaning in McCandless’ travels.

Suddenly, I remember my camera’s display screen. Trying to control my eagerness, I blind myself with the screen’s bright images. Hooray! Pointing the screen at the ground, Chad and I pick up our pace and reach our campsite in less than hour. Finally enjoying the aid of my foxy headlamp (well worth the $39 price tag), we gobble freshly filtered mountain water and twin bowls of exquisite, cheesy-ham Top Ramen. I can grasp McCandless’ sentiment after he survived for weeks on self-found food sources in Alaska’s wild: “The Great Holiness of Food, the Vital Heat.”

By D. Anderson
May 11, 2012